The last days in El Valle

Before we left we all took a last look at the site. I am usually sad when I leave a research site, but was more affected this time. I had become attached to the stream. The frogs were gone and this was a huge blow. The impending construction led me to believe that much of what made this stream special would be gone if I ever made it back again. We drove up the bumpy dirt road each lost in our own thoughts.

When we reached the point where the pavement began I got out to turn the locks off on the hubs from four wheel drive. I noticed the front tire was low so we started back to town to get it filled up. Just before we made it to the gas station where it could be repaired the tire went completely flat. When they realized our tire was flat, a couple of men immediately ran over to help. We all knew how to do it, but they were so enthusiastic that we allowed them to do most of the work. In the US people are generally a bit less willing to help a stranger. It is possible that they did so for hopes of a tip, but they did not seem to expect anything for their attention.

We finally got back to the hotel, and by 7:00 that evening had processed most of the samples and made some progress on analyzing the data collected from the electronic probes we had in the field over the last week. We cleaned out the back of the trucks and found out that Cathy had left several pairs of dirty socks. This was certainly expected.
Our first look at the data suggested that the reason for the dense algal growths in the stream really was the lack of frogs. The discharge of the stream and other basic properties were almost identical to what we had measured two years ago; temperature was within a half degree Celsius. The tropics are remarkably constant relative to many temperate habitats.

Piet had collected some samples for Emma that required centrifugation. We took some time off for dinner, and after we got back Piet worked on samples until about midnight. Heidi brought over a guitar for Alex and I played harmonica with him for awhile. We turned in relatively early because the next day we would leave for Panama City and we had a lot to get done before we could leave. Amanda would stay behind and continue sampling at the experiment site. I lay in bed contemplating the loss of the frogs and the construction on the site.

I was concerned about Amanda’s financial condition and left her some money. She had some problem with money being transferred into an account in the states, and had very little to live on for her next month in Panama. This was paying it forward in a way.

When I was a student traveling in Costa Rica, Dan Janzen was staying in the hotel we were using. Janzen is probably the best known living tropical ecologist in the world. He has dedicated his life to studying and conserving the tropics. He has since been elected a member of the US National Academy of Sciences and received the half million dollar McArthur Fellowship (the “Genius” award). He is one of my scientific heroes.

The hero bit was cemented given his response to an overheard phone conversation with my parents about wiring money to Guatemala. I was going there next by bus, and they had not received an earlier request from me to wire money to Costa Rica. When I got off the phone he asked me how much money I had. I told him I had $50, and he immediately gave me $100 more. He knew it possible to be refused entry into many Central American countries if you were not carrying enough money and I could be stranded at any of the four border crossings between Costa Rica and Guatemala. That was a good bit of money to give a stranger in 1977. I had to bother him for an address to send the money to repay him, and have been an admirer ever since. My admiration has only increased due to his untiring work to preserve tropical biodiversity, including helping establish the National parks of Costa Rica, and habitat restoration in that country.

Packing the next day took a long time. We not only had our own gear, but many boxes of scientific equipment that needed to be organized and packed and moved into our one remaining room. I took a brief walk up the stream that flows by the hotel and noticed a large raiding party of army ants on the trail. Thousands were spread out in one area, and columns of them were racing along a cleared trail across the forest floor. Many were carrying insect parts and others were carrying eggs and larvae.

I made the mistake of mentioning this to Alex when I returned and he grabbed his camera and ran out of the room. He returned later with a grin and a number of bites from the soldier army ants. Packing took all morning and took longer without Alex. We finally went to grab lunch with Heidi and Edgardo. After lunch, we threw our gear in the back of the truck and headed out of town. The remainder of the trip was unremarkable. This was good because riots were still occurring in Panama City. The only evidence we saw of them was a large line of army personnel with machine guns standing guard around a building as we drove to the airport at 6:00 am. Evidently the rioters kept more civilized hours.On the plane I reflected on how out of kilter my second trip to Panama seemed relative to my first. Foremost, was the disappearance of the frogs. Second, was the development entering the valley of Rio Maria. Finally, all the little things, getting sick, the stolen computer, the flat tire, the malfunctioning gear, Matt being worried about his animals, and concern over the riots in Panama City, that had happened this time but not the last .